gmclist@list.gmcnet.org

GMC Motorhome Discussion List

View all threads

Axle Rebuild

T
tony@cymadesign.ca
Thu, Sep 16, 2021 1:06 AM

I want to rebuild my axles. There is a lot of slop and noticeable vibration when accelerating, particularly from a stop.  I have scoured the forum for
suggestions.  I’ve been told the originals are not available. Can I:

  1. Swap them side to side putting the worn areas on the deceleration side.
  2. Buy Toronado axles on eBay. Take the cv joints off and put them on my axles.
  3. Buy eldorado axles and do the same as 2.

I have read that there are correct Toronado axles and incorrect ones, but I don’t know how to tell them apart.

What are your recommendations?  What are the pitfalls?

Many thanks

1974 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers
Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal

I want to rebuild my axles. There is a lot of slop and noticeable vibration when accelerating, particularly from a stop. I have scoured the forum for suggestions. I’ve been told the originals are not available. Can I: 1. Swap them side to side putting the worn areas on the deceleration side. 2. Buy Toronado axles on eBay. Take the cv joints off and put them on my axles. 3. Buy eldorado axles and do the same as 2. I have read that there are correct Toronado axles and incorrect ones, but I don’t know how to tell them apart. What are your recommendations? What are the pitfalls? Many thanks -- 1974 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal
KH
Ken Henderson
Thu, Sep 16, 2021 1:44 AM

Tony,

Yes all of your ideas are feasible:

  1. If it hasn't already been done, you CAN swap sides with the axles,
    achieving "new" wear areas.  I'd "rebuild" them while they're out anyway
    (new grease and outer boots).

2/3.  Toro and Eldo axles use the same CV joints (the only difference is
that one of the Eldo axles has a damper weight on the axle).  BUT,  the
original design CV's have become so scarce that most "rebuilt" ones are of
a different design, having a different spline.  So, the "rebuilders" have
to provide "new" shafts with that spline, which is totally incompatible
with our old longer shafts.  When that first became a problem a few years
ago, I went to the local NAPA and had them show me the computer photo of
what they were offering.  They showed both our design, which is distinctive
in appearance, and the new one.  I told them to order all the axles in
their system, and I'd take all the "old" ones and only those.  They did and
I did.  I think I got 3 out of 12.  Good luck today.

In case you don't know, the inner boots are probably still good.  You DO
NOT want to remove the sheet metal cans covering the inner joints:  After
removing the outer joints, remove the small clamp securing the inner boot
to the axle.  Put a board on the floor and hold the axle vertical by the
inner joint.  "Drop" the outer end of the axle gently onto the board.  The
inner cover will be dislodged, giving you access to the inner joint without
removing the can.  It's really not necessary to re-install the small clamp
on the inner boot -- I've never seen one leak.

HTH,

Ken H.

On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 9:08 PM tony@cymadesign.ca wrote:

I want to rebuild my axles. There is a lot of slop and noticeable
vibration when accelerating, particularly from a stop.  I have scoured the
forum for
suggestions.  I’ve been told the originals are not available. Can I:

  1. Swap them side to side putting the worn areas on the deceleration side.
  2. Buy Toronado axles on eBay. Take the cv joints off and put them on my
    axles.
  3. Buy eldorado axles and do the same as 2.

I have read that there are correct Toronado axles and incorrect ones, but
I don’t know how to tell them apart.

What are your recommendations?  What are the pitfalls?

Many thanks

1974 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers
Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal


GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

Tony, Yes all of your ideas are feasible: 1. If it hasn't already been done, you CAN swap sides with the axles, achieving "new" wear areas. I'd "rebuild" them while they're out anyway (new grease and outer boots). 2/3. Toro and Eldo axles use the same CV joints (the only difference is that one of the Eldo axles has a damper weight on the axle). BUT, the original design CV's have become so scarce that most "rebuilt" ones are of a different design, having a different spline. So, the "rebuilders" have to provide "new" shafts with that spline, which is totally incompatible with our old longer shafts. When that first became a problem a few years ago, I went to the local NAPA and had them show me the computer photo of what they were offering. They showed both our design, which is distinctive in appearance, and the new one. I told them to order all the axles in their system, and I'd take all the "old" ones and only those. They did and I did. I think I got 3 out of 12. Good luck today. In case you don't know, the inner boots are probably still good. You DO NOT want to remove the sheet metal cans covering the inner joints: After removing the outer joints, remove the small clamp securing the inner boot to the axle. Put a board on the floor and hold the axle vertical by the inner joint. "Drop" the outer end of the axle gently onto the board. The inner cover will be dislodged, giving you access to the inner joint without removing the can. It's really not necessary to re-install the small clamp on the inner boot -- I've never seen one leak. HTH, Ken H. On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 9:08 PM <tony@cymadesign.ca> wrote: > I want to rebuild my axles. There is a lot of slop and noticeable > vibration when accelerating, particularly from a stop. I have scoured the > forum for > suggestions. I’ve been told the originals are not available. Can I: > 1. Swap them side to side putting the worn areas on the deceleration side. > 2. Buy Toronado axles on eBay. Take the cv joints off and put them on my > axles. > 3. Buy eldorado axles and do the same as 2. > > I have read that there are correct Toronado axles and incorrect ones, but > I don’t know how to tell them apart. > > What are your recommendations? What are the pitfalls? > > Many thanks > -- > 1974 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers > Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal > _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >
JK
Jim Kanomata
Thu, Sep 16, 2021 3:51 AM

Be sure you can return the units as the NEW units Might have a different
spline.
Yes we supply a Rebuilt assembly by a firm that has a special "Scuffing"
machine and then install a larger ball and replace or rebuild the unit and
use the original axels.
We have encountered several rebuilders that only install larger ball only
and not touch other parts.

On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 6:44 PM Ken Henderson hend4800@bellsouth.net
wrote:

Tony,

Yes all of your ideas are feasible:

  1. If it hasn't already been done, you CAN swap sides with the axles,
    achieving "new" wear areas.  I'd "rebuild" them while they're out anyway
    (new grease and outer boots).

2/3.  Toro and Eldo axles use the same CV joints (the only difference is
that one of the Eldo axles has a damper weight on the axle).  BUT,  the
original design CV's have become so scarce that most "rebuilt" ones are of
a different design, having a different spline.  So, the "rebuilders" have
to provide "new" shafts with that spline, which is totally incompatible
with our old longer shafts.  When that first became a problem a few years
ago, I went to the local NAPA and had them show me the computer photo of
what they were offering.  They showed both our design, which is distinctive
in appearance, and the new one.  I told them to order all the axles in
their system, and I'd take all the "old" ones and only those.  They did and
I did.  I think I got 3 out of 12.  Good luck today.

In case you don't know, the inner boots are probably still good.  You DO
NOT want to remove the sheet metal cans covering the inner joints:  After
removing the outer joints, remove the small clamp securing the inner boot
to the axle.  Put a board on the floor and hold the axle vertical by the
inner joint.  "Drop" the outer end of the axle gently onto the board.  The
inner cover will be dislodged, giving you access to the inner joint without
removing the can.  It's really not necessary to re-install the small clamp
on the inner boot -- I've never seen one leak.

HTH,

Ken H.

On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 9:08 PM tony@cymadesign.ca wrote:

I want to rebuild my axles. There is a lot of slop and noticeable
vibration when accelerating, particularly from a stop.  I have scoured

the

forum for
suggestions.  I’ve been told the originals are not available. Can I:

  1. Swap them side to side putting the worn areas on the deceleration

side.

  1. Buy Toronado axles on eBay. Take the cv joints off and put them on my
    axles.
  2. Buy eldorado axles and do the same as 2.

I have read that there are correct Toronado axles and incorrect ones, but
I don’t know how to tell them apart.

What are your recommendations?  What are the pitfalls?

Many thanks

1974 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers
Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal


GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:


GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

--
Jim Kanomata ASE
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

Be sure you can return the units as the NEW units Might have a different spline. Yes we supply a Rebuilt assembly by a firm that has a special "Scuffing" machine and then install a larger ball and replace or rebuild the unit and use the original axels. We have encountered several rebuilders that only install larger ball only and not touch other parts. On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 6:44 PM Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net> wrote: > Tony, > > Yes all of your ideas are feasible: > > 1. If it hasn't already been done, you CAN swap sides with the axles, > achieving "new" wear areas. I'd "rebuild" them while they're out anyway > (new grease and outer boots). > > 2/3. Toro and Eldo axles use the same CV joints (the only difference is > that one of the Eldo axles has a damper weight on the axle). BUT, the > original design CV's have become so scarce that most "rebuilt" ones are of > a different design, having a different spline. So, the "rebuilders" have > to provide "new" shafts with that spline, which is totally incompatible > with our old longer shafts. When that first became a problem a few years > ago, I went to the local NAPA and had them show me the computer photo of > what they were offering. They showed both our design, which is distinctive > in appearance, and the new one. I told them to order all the axles in > their system, and I'd take all the "old" ones and only those. They did and > I did. I think I got 3 out of 12. Good luck today. > > In case you don't know, the inner boots are probably still good. You DO > NOT want to remove the sheet metal cans covering the inner joints: After > removing the outer joints, remove the small clamp securing the inner boot > to the axle. Put a board on the floor and hold the axle vertical by the > inner joint. "Drop" the outer end of the axle gently onto the board. The > inner cover will be dislodged, giving you access to the inner joint without > removing the can. It's really not necessary to re-install the small clamp > on the inner boot -- I've never seen one leak. > > HTH, > > Ken H. > > On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 9:08 PM <tony@cymadesign.ca> wrote: > > > I want to rebuild my axles. There is a lot of slop and noticeable > > vibration when accelerating, particularly from a stop. I have scoured > the > > forum for > > suggestions. I’ve been told the originals are not available. Can I: > > 1. Swap them side to side putting the worn areas on the deceleration > side. > > 2. Buy Toronado axles on eBay. Take the cv joints off and put them on my > > axles. > > 3. Buy eldorado axles and do the same as 2. > > > > I have read that there are correct Toronado axles and incorrect ones, but > > I don’t know how to tell them apart. > > > > What are your recommendations? What are the pitfalls? > > > > Many thanks > > -- > > 1974 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers > > Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal > > _______________________________________________ > > GMCnet mailing list > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: > > > _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: > -- Jim Kanomata ASE Applied/GMC, Newark,CA jimk@appliedairfilters.com http://www.gmcrvparts.com 1-800-752-7502
T
tony@cymadesign.ca
Fri, Sep 17, 2021 1:35 AM

Great description. Thank you. Does anyone have a picture of the correct spline?

1974 26’ 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers
Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal

Great description. Thank you. Does anyone have a picture of the correct spline? -- 1974 26’ 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal
JK
Jim Kanomata
Fri, Sep 17, 2021 3:54 AM

You can count the splines and go do the same and do the same on a
female spline, or take a shaft with you and try.

On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 6:36 PM tony@cymadesign.ca wrote:

Great description. Thank you. Does anyone have a picture of the correct
spline?

1974 26’ 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers
Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal


GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

--
Jim Kanomata ASE
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502

You can count the splines and go do the same and do the same on a female spline, or take a shaft with you and try. On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 6:36 PM <tony@cymadesign.ca> wrote: > Great description. Thank you. Does anyone have a picture of the correct > spline? > -- > 1974 26’ 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers > Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal > _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: > -- Jim Kanomata ASE Applied/GMC, Newark,CA jimk@appliedairfilters.com http://www.gmcrvparts.com 1-800-752-7502
KH
Ken Henderson
Fri, Sep 17, 2021 10:05 AM

Once you've seen both CV's, you'll never confuse them again.

Ken H.

On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 9:36 PM tony@cymadesign.ca wrote:

Great description. Thank you. Does anyone have a picture of the correct
spline?

1974 26’ 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers
Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal


GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

Once you've seen both CV's, you'll never confuse them again. Ken H. On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 9:36 PM <tony@cymadesign.ca> wrote: > Great description. Thank you. Does anyone have a picture of the correct > spline? > -- > 1974 26’ 455, 90,000 miles, pertronix, aluminum rad, headers > Port Colborne, ON Canada. Southern end of the Welland Canal > _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >