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Nothing happens when I turn the key

K
kcloutier@nyc.rr.com
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:47 AM

Hello Folks - I'm on a trip In Maine and suddenly nothing happens when I turn the key on my '77. No dash lights, totally dead. It will start with the
battery boost switch from the house batts and runs fine. The engine battery tests good and is getting a charge. I stopped at a Napa and changed out
the battery boost solenoid but no luck there. Something just blew or disconnected somewhere but what? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
'72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
Member GMCMI since 8/20

Hello Folks - I'm on a trip In Maine and suddenly nothing happens when I turn the key on my '77. No dash lights, totally dead. It will start with the battery boost switch from the house batts and runs fine. The engine battery tests good and is getting a charge. I stopped at a Napa and changed out the battery boost solenoid but no luck there. Something just blew or disconnected somewhere but what? Any help is greatly appreciated! -- Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa. '72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible Member GMCMI since 8/20
BV
Bill Van Vlack
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:56 AM

Maybe corroded battery terminals; take them off and clean them. If not, follow the wires to the next connection(s) (hot and ground) downstream. Rinse
and repeat.

Or, first maybe try connecting a jumper cable from BAT+ to the chassis side of the boost solenoid. If it starts, something in between is open.

Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid
November 2015.

Maybe corroded battery terminals; take them off and clean them. If not, follow the wires to the next connection(s) (hot and ground) downstream. Rinse and repeat. Or, first maybe try connecting a jumper cable from BAT+ to the chassis side of the boost solenoid. If it starts, something in between is open. -- Bill Van Vlack '76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid November 2015.
KB
Ken Burton
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 4:13 AM

I second Bill's suggestion.  Check and clean BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables.  Also possibly one of the cables is corroded inside under the
insulation.  If it starts on the house battery(s) then the problem has to be with the engine battery and its cables or connections.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

I second Bill's suggestion. Check and clean BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables. Also possibly one of the cables is corroded inside under the insulation. If it starts on the house battery(s) then the problem has to be with the engine battery and its cables or connections. -- Ken Burton - N9KB 76 Palm Beach Hebron, Indiana
SW
Sammy Williams
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 4:16 AM

Fusible link wire between key and starter perhaps?
Loose or corroded battery terminals
Blown fuse

On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 23:14 Ken Burton n9cv@comcast.net wrote:

I second Bill's suggestion.  Check and clean BOTH ends of BOTH battery
cables.  Also possibly one of the cables is corroded inside under the
insulation.  If it starts on the house battery(s) then the problem has to
be with the engine battery and its cables or connections.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana


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Fusible link wire between key and starter perhaps? Loose or corroded battery terminals Blown fuse On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 23:14 Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote: > I second Bill's suggestion. Check and clean BOTH ends of BOTH battery > cables. Also possibly one of the cables is corroded inside under the > insulation. If it starts on the house battery(s) then the problem has to > be with the engine battery and its cables or connections. > -- > Ken Burton - N9KB > 76 Palm Beach > Hebron, Indiana > _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >
K
kcloutier@nyc.rr.com
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 11:48 AM

I have good voltage from the engine batt to the solenoid - cables are good and clean.

Where is this fusible link between the key and the starter?

What "fuse would be blown"?

Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
'72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
Member GMCMI since 8/20

I have good voltage from the engine batt to the solenoid - cables are good and clean. Where is this fusible link between the key and the starter? What "fuse would be blown"? -- Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa. '72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible Member GMCMI since 8/20
KH
Ken Henderson
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:06 PM

If the fusible link were blown, the House battery wouldn't work either.

How do you know the chassis voltage at the solenoid is "good"?  A
voltmeter, used without engaging the starter can read full voltage even
though there's far too high resistance somewhere.  I'm guessing the
resistance at the terminal on one of the battery cables is so high that is
dropping all the voltage when current tries to reach 200+ Amps.  I had that
happen a couple of years ago -- the positive battery cable at the battery
looked great and had a clean, well-maintained connection to the battery,
but when I pulled on the cable, it slipped right out of the terminal.

Ken H.

On Sat, Jul 31, 2021 at 7:48 AM kcloutier@nyc.rr.com wrote:

I have good voltage from the engine batt to the solenoid - cables are good
and clean.

Where is this fusible link between the key and the starter?

What "fuse would be blown"?

Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb,
headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
'72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
Member GMCMI since 8/20


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If the fusible link were blown, the House battery wouldn't work either. How do you know the chassis voltage at the solenoid is "good"? A voltmeter, used without engaging the starter can read full voltage even though there's far too high resistance somewhere. I'm guessing the resistance at the terminal on one of the battery cables is so high that is dropping all the voltage when current tries to reach 200+ Amps. I had that happen a couple of years ago -- the positive battery cable at the battery looked great and had a clean, well-maintained connection to the battery, but when I pulled on the cable, it slipped right out of the terminal. Ken H. On Sat, Jul 31, 2021 at 7:48 AM <kcloutier@nyc.rr.com> wrote: > I have good voltage from the engine batt to the solenoid - cables are good > and clean. > > Where is this fusible link between the key and the starter? > > What "fuse would be blown"? > -- > Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, > headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa. > '72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible > Member GMCMI since 8/20 > _______________________________________________ > GMCnet mailing list > Unsubscribe or Change List Options: >
BM
Billy Massey
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 12:25 PM

Neutral Safety Switch?
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html

-----Original Message-----
From: kcloutier@nyc.rr.com [mailto:kcloutier@nyc.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 7:48 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Nothing happens when I turn the key

Hello Folks - I'm on a trip In Maine and suddenly nothing happens when I
turn the key on my '77. No dash lights, totally dead. It will start with the
battery boost switch from the house batts and runs fine. The engine battery
tests good and is getting a charge. I stopped at a Napa and changed out
the battery boost solenoid but no luck there. Something just blew or
disconnected somewhere but what? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers,
, resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa.
'72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible
Member GMCMI since 8/20


GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:

Neutral Safety Switch? http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html -----Original Message----- From: kcloutier@nyc.rr.com [mailto:kcloutier@nyc.rr.com] Sent: Friday, July 30, 2021 7:48 PM To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org Subject: [GMCnet] Nothing happens when I turn the key Hello Folks - I'm on a trip In Maine and suddenly nothing happens when I turn the key on my '77. No dash lights, totally dead. It will start with the battery boost switch from the house batts and runs fine. The engine battery tests good and is getting a charge. I stopped at a Napa and changed out the battery boost solenoid but no luck there. Something just blew or disconnected somewhere but what? Any help is greatly appreciated! -- Kevin Cloutier -'77 Eleganza II-455, 6 disk brakes, Edelbrock carb, headers, , resident of NYC and Dingmans Ferry, Pa. '72 MGB-GT & '73 MGB convertible Member GMCMI since 8/20 _______________________________________________ GMCnet mailing list Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
MC
Matt Colie
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 1:58 PM

Kevin,

An often ignored place for poor connections is the ground path.  Check that before you spend any more money.  Those flat braid cables can dissolve in
a corrosive environment like the east coast.  Care to guess how I know??

If your diagnostic data is correct, you just have a bad connection somewhere.  I hope you kept the good boost contactor that you took out.

Matt

Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit

Kevin, An often ignored place for poor connections is the ground path. Check that before you spend any more money. Those flat braid cables can dissolve in a corrosive environment like the east coast. Care to guess how I know?? If your diagnostic data is correct, you just have a bad connection somewhere. I hope you kept the good boost contactor that you took out. Matt -- Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
JR
John R. Lebetski
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 2:34 PM

You did not need to replace boost contactor as that is just a stud pass through junction on the engine positive side.
You say dash lights no go.  Try the headlamps and report back.  Not sure about the validity of your engine battery “test”.  Digital battery load
testers are USUALLY accurate but not always. You could have an intermittent cell  which can be a bugger to diagnose at times.
Since BOOST works, logic says the problem is on the hot side before the boost junction. Positive battery cable to boost junction or battery itself.
Could also be the Neg cable or connections on engine battery side.  You don’t need to look elsewhere as Boost starts it.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

You did not need to replace boost contactor as that is just a stud pass through junction on the engine positive side. You say dash lights no go. Try the headlamps and report back. Not sure about the validity of your engine battery “test”. Digital battery load testers are USUALLY accurate but not always. You could have an intermittent cell which can be a bugger to diagnose at times. Since BOOST works, logic says the problem is on the hot side before the boost junction. Positive battery cable to boost junction or battery itself. Could also be the Neg cable or connections on engine battery side. You don’t need to look elsewhere as Boost starts it. -- John Lebetski Woodstock, IL 77 Eleganza II
MO
MICHAEL ORLANDI
Sat, Jul 31, 2021 3:01 PM

Try doing a voltage drop on the positive engine cable. B+ to starter terminal. Have some one crank it over and look at your meter.  If  you have more than .2 volts ,any reading on the meter,  you have a bad cable or connection. Red lead  on meter to battery and black lead on starter.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: John R. Lebetski
Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2021 7:35 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Nothing happens when I turn the key

You did not need to replace boost contactor as that is just a stud pass through junction on the engine positive side.
You say dash lights no go.  Try the headlamps and report back.  Not sure about the validity of your engine battery “test”.  Digital battery load
testers are USUALLY accurate but not always. You could have an intermittent cell  which can be a bugger to diagnose at times.
Since BOOST works, logic says the problem is on the hot side before the boost junction. Positive battery cable to boost junction or battery itself.
Could also be the Neg cable or connections on engine battery side.  You don’t need to look elsewhere as Boost starts it.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II


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Try doing a voltage drop on the positive engine cable. B+ to starter terminal. Have some one crank it over and look at your meter. If you have more than .2 volts ,any reading on the meter, you have a bad cable or connection. Red lead on meter to battery and black lead on starter. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: John R. Lebetski Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2021 7:35 AM To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Nothing happens when I turn the key You did not need to replace boost contactor as that is just a stud pass through junction on the engine positive side. You say dash lights no go. Try the headlamps and report back. Not sure about the validity of your engine battery “test”. Digital battery load testers are USUALLY accurate but not always. You could have an intermittent cell which can be a bugger to diagnose at times. Since BOOST works, logic says the problem is on the hot side before the boost junction. Positive battery cable to boost junction or battery itself. Could also be the Neg cable or connections on engine battery side. You don’t need to look elsewhere as Boost starts it. -- John Lebetski Woodstock, IL 77 Eleganza II _______________________________________________ GMCnet mailing list Unsubscribe or Change List Options: